Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Let's Build a Pirate Sloop Part IV Complexion Issues

If your model has a nice smooth finish, or you are going to use my other method of cover hulls (index card and glue see here for an example of how I approach that technique) you can skip this step and move on to the next.

she sure is pretty with her upper works installed
and the hull lightly sanded to even off the rough bits

but, even after switching to 150 grit she looks a bit, well, "fuzzy"

O.K., O.K. REALLY fuzzy

and you were wondering what this was for in the original tools list,
 it is a type of brush called "bright" it is almost flat in profile and has semi-stiff bristles
don't buy top-quality, we will be abusing this brush

wallboard filler compound,
I try to always get the latex-based type as it has a bit of flexibility to it

add a small spoonful of water and work it into the compound,
it should be the consistency of peanut butter when you are ready

NOTE lots of other people use things like Durham's Water Putty or Autobody filler,
whatever you choose be sure of these two things;
1, It is easily sandable and;
2, It doesn't have any solvents that will melt the foam board

with the filler mixed you scoop a big blob of it onto the brush and......

paint it across the surface of the model,
try to keep it as thin as possible to ensure the quickest drying time and reduce the chance of chipping

oh yes, she looks much better now!
the next step involves sanding the surface lightly with 60 grit and then more comprehensively with 150 grit (you can go further to finer grits but you will have much less return on your time invested)
so outside if possible to do this, it is going to create a real mess

sleek and smooth

I add a coat of flat white latex at this point to fix the surface of the model and to give a better look at any remaining flaws, flat white is very unforgiving of blemishes

after the paint has dried overnight we are ready for the next step, rub-rails and trim

pre-forming the part, I am referring to this as the rub-rail
there may be a cooler nautical term for it but this is my term for it

let the rub-tails over hang the stern and trim them to flush

carefully cut around all three sides to prevent splitting

sand away any burrs

I used extra deck planking for trim for a more elegant look

the thin section accepts a curve very well

and then back to trim

and more fancy bits

those railings from earlier have reappeared

the model is ridiculously light, try this with a 22 inch long resin model

a last look at the stern


  1. The side strips are called gunwales (sometimes gunnels) and were originally added to the gunnery decks as a way to strengthen the hull to withstand the stress of firing the ships guns.

    Your model looks fantastic - I am very impressed with your skills and am really enjoying seeing this project unfold.


  2. Hi all, for those in the UK awaiting their kits they have arrived with me and as soon as I can get some suitable boxes they will be on their way to you.

    Andy Mac

  3. Anton,

    First I want to say thank you very much for the fantastic ship model you sent me. I didn't hear anything back so I wasn't sure it was coming. Now the important part. How would you like me to pay for it and how much? I can pay via check, PayPal or other method. I can trade figures, some ships, or wampum (last one is a joke, unless you want beads) - your call. I have a 28mm painted smaller sailing ship that I can send back to you in exchange if you would like. Your call. Again, Thank You. Scott Landis

    1. Scott (and everybody else) I have decided that I would eschew payment as long as you made a donation to the USO (or other appropriate local agency in a similar vein). I trust to the sterling qualities of gamers and do not ask that you verify the donation, just that you make it.